8/13/2013

Big John Denim: Details on Three Fabrics

Our first shipment of Big John just hit the online store, and we are really pleased with the details in these jeans. Besides sewing, rivets, and fit, the fabrics Big John used to make these four jeans are all really exceptional. We think they are definitely worth going into the details. The Faux Slub denim, used in both the Slim Straight and Slim Tapered, is their standard indigo.
The Faux Slub is Big John's exclusive 14oz sanforized selvedge denim. The fabric uses speckle dyed yarns, which are regular straight yarns that are dyed to leave the core of the yarn uneven. It looks clean and smooth when raw, but with it fades it will give an uneven appearance similar to that of slub yarn denim. This creates the kind of contrast fading vintage denim often has. The fact that the denim is woven at low tension emphasizes this effect. It is a brilliant mix of modern and heritage appearance. You can find more information about the Slim Tapered here, and the Slim Straight here.

The second fabric is the GUNJO, Big John's original 14.5 sanforized selvedge denim. The color of GUNJO is a replication of the very first Japanese denim used in the production of jeans, the KD-8, made in 1973 by Big John in collaboration with Kurabo mills. The dying technique at that time had not been fully developed so KD-8's blue was on the lighter side with a red/brown hue. In order to recreate this color they used indigo dye with lower concentration in the baths during the rope dying process. Despite the vintage color, the fabric is woven to have an even surface, giving it a modern appearance. You can find more information about the GUNJO jean in Slim Straight here.

The third and final fabric we received is the KURO2, another of Big John's original denims. This 12oz sanforized selvedge is a made in Japan version of a Cone Mills denim used in Big John's 1969 collection, "ROAD COLORS". Unlike regular black denim, the warp yarn is dyed indigo before it is dyed black in sulphur. They also use a special dye on the weft yarn so that the warp and weft fade together. Normally black denim can be stiff and uncomfortable, but these dying methods enable the fabric to be softer and more supple than conventional black denim. As you wear the denim the black color fades, and the indigo color starts to appear on the surface, creating a completely unique appearance. If you want more information about the KURO2 jean, you can check it out in Slim Tapered here.